Advice On Achieving Platinum Blond Hair

by Lunae9

posted on 08/04/2009

What Is "Platinum"?

"Platinum blond" refers to very light blond hair with cool undertones. Two famous "platinum" blonds are Gwen Stefani and Marilyn Monroe.

Drawbacks of Going Platinum

It is commonly known that bleaching your hair causes a certain degree of damage. If you make sure to bleach your hair properly, you can avoid extensive damage. This damage can be remedied to some extent with quality hair care products, conditioners, and hair-repair serums. If your hair is dark brown or black, you may want to reconsider going platinum blond. If you are not naturally blond, you will have to bleach your roots fairly often to maintain the look. This can be expensive and frustrating. Also, you will want to find someone who is willing to help you with the roots on the back of your head.

What You Will Need

The supplies you need can be found at any beauty supply store. If you are nervous about which types or brands to buy, the staff will most likely be very helpful. Do not hesitate to ask them questions. You will need a developer and lightening powder. You will need a bowl to mix them in, and a brush to apply the bleach. You should use protective gloves and wear clothes that will protect your skin and that you would not mind damaging (just in case). You can also use goggles to protect your eyes if you wish. For bleaching, you will need a 30 to 40 volume developing creme. If you are a beginner, stick with the 30 volume. Also, you will need a second type of developer if you are going to do a double process. This is 20 volume developer, and it is to mix with the toner. Just don't get them mixed up. Remember: 30 or 40 volume developer is for bleaching, and 20 volume developer is for the toner. If you want to go platinum blond, you need a toner with a violet base. This will neutralize the yellow. You may want to use a hair-color applicator bottle for the toner. If going blond is a long-term commitment for you, you may want to buy the developer and lightening powder in larger containers, so that you will always have some when it is time to do your roots. You may also want some clips to secure the sections of your hair as you work.

Where to Start

First, know that bleaching your hair to platinum is likely to be a double process. This means that it takes two separate chemical processes to achieve the color you want. In your mixing bowl, mix the creme developer with the lightening powder at a ratio of three ounces of developer per two scoops of lightening powder. Part your hair into four sections. Some stylists recommend working from the back to the front. You may want to have someone else do this if you are bleaching your own hair.

Applying the Mixture

Brush the bleach onto the lengths of your hair first, leaving the roots untouched. This is to avoid uneven lightening and to keep from getting chemical burns on your scalp, so it is important. Keep the bleach about an inch away from your scalp initially, and never massage the mixture into your scalp in any way. Once you have all the lengths of your hair covered, you can apply the mixture (carefully) to the root area. Be careful not to get it on your scalp, but make sure all the hair is covered.

The Double Process

There are several variables involved in processing time, so you will have to watch the hair carefully. It may take anywhere between 20-60 minutes, but do not leave the mixture on any longer than 60 minutes. This is to avoid both chemical burns and extensive damage or breaking of the hair. Watch until your hair turns to a pale yellow. When it is a very pale yellow, you can rinse it off. Do not rinse it off before that, or your color will be brassy. Do not wait longer than that to rinse it off, or your hair could end up very damaged.

Rinse all of the mixture out of your hair. When you have all of the mixture out of your hair, towel-dry (it can be damp) and you are ready to start the second process.

To apply the toner, you can clean your mixing bowl and brush and re-use it, or you can use a hair color applicator bottle. I prefer the latter, because it is much faster and easier. Mix the 20 volume creme developer with the toner that has a violet base in equal parts. The toner will have directions on the box that tell you how long to leave the toner on your hair. It may vary depending on your hair, but it is usually 15-20 minutes. After that time period, rinse your hair once more. You may want to use a deep, repairing conditioner at this point.

After Care

Platinum blond hair requires special maintenance. The most helpful product I have found is a purple shampoo that is specially formulated for bleached hair. You can also use purple conditioner. If you use the purple shampoo, leave the lather on for 3-5 minutes in the shower. It works very well to keep your hair from getting brassy (yellow). Of course, since you have bleached your hair, you will also want to invest in a very good conditioner or hair repair serum. I am not endorsing any specific products, but if you go to your local beauty supply store, the staff should be very helpful in picking out a good product for your needs. As I said before, you will need to bleach your roots often. Remember that this will not normally take as long as the initial process and to be very careful when applying bleach near your scalp.

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